THE BITE: An amuse-bouche of fashion news

Margiela’s important message. Story by Anne Pringle.

Margiela for AIDS
Every Maison Martin Margiela collection since 1994 has included a variation of their celebrated AIDS T-shirt, the newest addition being the Japanese version. The text on the shirt is obscured intentionally, appearing on both the front and the inside back (so that the message is whole when the shirt is not being worn), which is meant to prompt discussion, and thus raise awareness, about HIV/AIDS. The shirts will be released on December 1, World AIDS Day, with a percentage of the sales being donated to AIDES, a French organization. The message, which will reportedly appear in different languages with every following year, says, “There is more action to be done to fight AIDS than to wear this t-shirt but it’s a good start”. (Hint Fashion Magazine) via (Style.com)

Klum + Taylor
We told you about Heidi Klum retiring as a Victoria’s Secret Angel, a tough decision made so that she could focus on other things, such as her newly appointed role as the face of Ann Taylor. Following in the footsteps of Milla Jovovich and Naomi Watts, Klum is the newest addition to the brand’s new look since pulling a total revamp a few seasons ago. Klum will reportedly make her debut for the label in Ann Taylor’s holiday 2010 campaign, which will be shot by famed British photographer Rankin. (NY Post)

Isla Moda
Karl Lagerfeld has his hands in a totally new kind of design project—designing his own island. The “Isla Moda” will reportedly be inspired by the floating palaces of India and cruise ships, and is being created in collaboration with Miami-based architecture firm Oppenheim and the KOR hotel group. The manmade island will be situated just 20km off the coast of Dubai, and will include a resort complex with three luxury hotels, 150 residential villas and several Karl-picked boutiques. The fashion-lover’s Eden is set to launch in 2014. (Vogue UK)

Muse by Matthew Williamson
British designer Matthew Williamson has been busy lately: We already told you about his jewel-toned handbag collection for Bulgari, set to launch in 2011, and now he is about to release his debut diffusion line. Muse by Matthew Williamson, the line’s working title, is meant to be the “younger sister” to the designer’s signature collection, and with a (slightly) more affordable price range. Prices will start from $474 for a day dress and $790 for eveningwear. (WWD)

THE BITE: An amuse-bouche of fashion news

The Kaiser in denim. Whitewashed denim. Nous aimons. Story by Anne Pringle.

The age of jeans
In early September, we told you that Karl Lagerfeld had cancelled his signature runway collection from Paris Fashion Week, as he reportedly wanted to focus on his new “masstige” ready-to-wear collection (soon to be sold online). The legendary designer for both Chanel and Fendi believes in evolving as: “We live in the age of jeans. It’s funny for a person who has money to buy something inexpensive and it’s great for a person with not so much money to be able to get something by a designer… It’s the new snobbism.” According to Lagerfeld, masstige—making lower-priced designer items to be sold to the masses—is “the modern way to do it”. (WWD)

End of an era at Betsey Johnson
Chantal Bacon, Betsey Johnson’s chief executive officer and longtime friend to the designer, is leaving the company after 30 years. Bacon first joined forces with Johnson when the label was part of Andy Warhol’s underground scene in the Sixties. The former CEO has been slowly scaling back her day-to-day involvement in the company since April, finally terminating her position last week. Johnson said that she will miss having her friend by her side in business, but will go forward with the label doing what she does best—designing. (WWD)

Welcome home
Designer Jason Wu is going home to Taiwan for the first time in four years since launching his fashion business. What could call him away from the bustling fall fashion scene? His brother’s wedding, for which he designed the bride’s gown and bridesmaid dresses. He will be facing a new reality upon his return—apparently his star appeal is so big in his native land that he will need a private security team to follow him through the airport. Oh, the trials of being a fashion superstar. (WWD)

Flat-out comfort
Alber Elbaz, the artistic director of Lanvin, granted his models a boon at the fashion house’s runway show, allowing them to swap their stilt-like heels for flat sandals at the last minute. The gesture was in keeping with the attitude of the whole collection, to which he said, “The whole idea of fashion is to make women fly and make women beautiful, and to make women glamorous.” Or, maybe he just wanted to avoid a similar debacle to Burberry’s runway show at London’s Fashion Week…(Vogue UK)

THE BITE: An amuse-bouche of fashion news

The muse and the master, in the ’80s. Story by Anne Pringle.

Chanel + de la Fressange
Many fashion brands have attempted to diversify their model cast this season. Take, for example, Chanel, which has just (re-)recruited Inès de la Fressange to walk in its October 5 runway show. Fifty-three year-old Fressange, the face of Chanel in the Eighties, will also appear in the brand’s Spring 2011 ad campaign, along with modelling stars from the two ensuing decades, Stella Tennant and Freja Beha Erichsen. The hotly anticipated campaign shoot will take place in the south of France. (WWD)

Think Pink!
In conjunction with Breast Cancer Awareness month, Ralph Lauren is celebrating the 10th anniversary of the Ralph Lauren Pink Pony Foundation. The brand enlisted 100 fashion bloggers to photograph themselves in the latest Pink Pony polo in order to promote awareness of the disease among the online fashion community. If you’d like to donate to the cause, text PINKPONY to 501501 to instantly donate $10. (Style List)

Kenzo turns 40
After its Spring 2011 show this Wednesday, October 5, Kenzo will showcase a special performance of fashion, sculpture and art. The feature presentation is in celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary. Other anniversary highlights include: lifelike sculptures made of famous Kenzo pieces, the release of a commemorative archive book, and a special edition patchwork bag. (Vogue UK)

Punk style
We’ve seen the reemergence of preppy with Tommy Hilfiger’s brand refresher, Ralph Lauren’s big anniversary, and lots of nautical and sportswear influence on the runways. Maybe good trends come in opposites, because many of the Spring 2011 fashion shows have featured a punk edge. The trend popped up all over the place, from ripped denim shorts with lace-up boots and studded leather jackets at Balmain to motorcycle jackets at Balenciaga to fake nose piercings at Alexander Wang and Hakaan. There’s something for everyone this season. (Style.com)

THE BITE: An amuse-bouche of fashion news

Heidi Klum means (more) business. Story by Anne Pringle.

Klum + New Balance
Heidi Klum is launching her first-ever fashion collection—and it’s surprisingly practical for the mother of four. She will design a sportswear line in collaboration with New Balance, targeting busy women who are on-the-go but still want to look “stylish, comfortable and hip,” according to Klum. The collection will be available exclusively on amazon.co.uk beginning October 7. (Vogue UK)

Bookmarc open for business
Marc Jacob’s first bookstore has officially opened up in New York’s West Village, kitty-corner to the brand’s women’s collection store. Robert Duffy, the MJ company president, claimed that they have been eyeing that spot for years, and added that the brand has “always had a mix of books in our stores, so it was my dream to eventually one day have a bookstore on Bleecker Street.” Think art, photography and coffee table books—according to Duffy, the only bestsellers on offer would have to be written by a friend of his (or perhaps of Marc’s!). (WWD)

Lagerfeld’s cancellation
Karl Lagerfeld has suddenly cancelled the runway show of his signature collection during Paris Fashion Week. Instead of preparing for the show that was scheduled to be shown on October 3, Lagerfeld is reportedly preparing a new “masstige” ready-to-wear collection to be sold online. Lagerfeld himself helped ignite the masstige movement of high-end low-lines when he collaborated with H&M in 2004 (a collection that sold out within hours)! Sigh, I guess it is the way of the future (and good news for our bank accounts), but we’ll still miss seeing his runway creations. (WWD)

Donna Karan’s milestone
Donna Karan is about to celebrate her brand’s 25th anniversary, having launched her namesake label in 1985. When asked about a possible anniversary celebration, the designer answered: “I think I really acknowledged it with the fall collection. It was a time to say, okay back to the basics. Here’s the black, here’s the system of dressing.” Sounds like we can expect dark colours, minimalism and classic shapes for the silver anniversary. (Globe and Mail)

THE BITE: An amuse-bouche of fashion news

You oughta be in pictures…Story by Anne Pringle.

Lagerfeld retrospective
This September in Paris will be all about fashion, with the usual much-anticipated Fashion Week, and a choicely timed photography exhibit of Karl Lagerfeld’s photography. The exhibition will be held at the Maison Européenne de la Photographie, and will showcase Lagerfeld’s snaps from his editorial days at Harper’s Bazaar andVogue to his ad campaigns for Chanel and Fendi. The exhibition runs from September 10 to October 15. (Vogue UK)

Lezark’s fashion connections
DKNY has had some pretty iconic women fronting their ads, including Alexa Chung and Daisy Lowe. The newest face of the brand will be Leigh Lezark, the American DJ-turned model, who will appear in the label’s Fall/Winter 2010 campaign. Lezark, the founder of New York-based DJ group the Misshapes, appears in “personal snapshot” style photos for the campaign, capturing her and friends in action. Lezark is also the face of Moon, the new line that launched at the Bay last week (stay tuned for our pics and report from the event!) (Vogue UK)

Zero waste fashion
Many fashion brands have gone green by using more sustainable packaging and improving transportation efficiency—but that’s just the “vegetarian” eco option. The latest and more extreme trend (the “raw-food vegan” eco option) is now known as zero waste fashion. The aim: For there to be not a scrap of material left over on the cutting room floor, eliminating what amounts to literally tons of garbage a year. Parsons, the New York design school, is even offering the world’s first fashion course in zero waste this fall. (New York Times)

DVF powers ahead
Is there anything Diane Von Furstenberg doesn’t do? We’ve told you about her clothes for New York’s Radio City Rockettes, her hotel room decor at London’s Claridge’s, and her design of a BMW Mini for charity. Her latest project is perhaps the most unexpected yet: She has collaborated with the Cleveland Clinic to create hospital gowns. DVF tweeted that the team had worked hard on the gowns and they hoped they “will make patients happier!” (Fashionista)

THE BITE: An amuse-bouche of fashion news

Does this photo make you want to call him “The Karl-meister”? Story by Anne Pringle.

Crazy for Karl
On Thursday at the Elysée presidential palace, French President Nicolas Sarkozy will anoint Karl Lagerfeld a Commander of the Legion of Honour, France’s highest civilian award. Lagerfeld is the creative director for both Chanel and Fendi, and has also recently remarked that he would love to design for the mass market again (after a successful H&M collab in 2004). Fingers crossed! (Vogue UK) and (WWD

LV limited
Louis Vuitton’s latest limited-edition has the potential to rack up a pretty hefty waiting list—it won’t just be the fashion collectors vying for first dibs, but sports fans too. Yesterday in Paris, the label debuted a special-order case for the World Cup Trophy, which was commissioned byFIFA and hand-made by a single master Louis Vuitton craftsmen. (Style File)

Dye DIY
If you liked “The Buy” from Monday about the return of tie-dye in fashion and on the runways (like Proenza Schouler’s Spring 2010 collection), this at-home version is for you. iDye has come out with easy at-home dyes that conveniently come in single packets in an array of summery colours (lilac, crimson, pumpkin). Plus, the gentle formula promises not to stain your washing machine. Find them in Toronto at G&S Dye, 250 Dundas St. W. (NY Mag)

Scent story
Histoires de Parfums—scents inspired by bold historic heroines such as George Sand, Ella Fitzgerald and the Marquis de Sade— have been hard to come by… until now. J. Crew’s bridal designer Tom Mora felt that the scents’ interesting back stories would suit his customers, and has persuaded the company to carry six of them (including 1969, which is said to be worn by celebs like Angelina Jolie). (NY Times)